LGBT TRAVEL :: Palm Springs is a destination that had us at hello, a slice-of-heaven city that keeps us begging for more. Palm Springs has repeatedly been named the #1 gay travel destination worldwide and with its unique brand of clean dry desert air, clear blue skies, swimming pools and Jetsons homes that’s easy to understand.

A historical, ecological and party travel jewel nestled below the San Jacinto Mountains, Palm Springs has long been a sublime playground favoured by Hollywood elite and gays alike. Early Hollywood saw stars like Cary Grant, Charlie Chaplin and Laurence Olivier stuck with studio contracts containing a “100-mile” clause, designed to keep talent close to Hollywood when shoots were in progress.  This made Palm Springs an ideal party town within the 100-mile limit, and at the same time gay Hollywood could also be out safely.

Palm Springs was where Hollywood could come and spend money, a posh and elite crowd in what was already a resort town filled with free-spirited, optimistic, and forward-thinking people. Today’s new breed of stars prefer the many walled estates located in the star-kissed city, and the very-Canadian way privacy is fairly respected when out in public. To this day, residents value the provenance and stewardship celebrities bring to Palm Springs.

Notably, Palm Springs comes alive during their annual Pride festivities; Palm Springs Pride celebrated 30 years of celebrating in 2013. With arguably the most stunning parade route in the world – San Jacinto-meets-palm tree-lined-streets-meets-rainbow-flags-and-glitter – the Palm Springs Pride Parade isn’t for sleepy-heads, starting at 10am.

But Pride partying is just a small part of what Palm Springs has to offer. In fact – and you can take away our gay card – we return time and again to be amongst the city’s fabled architecture, celebrated each winter at Palm Springs Modernism Week. The natural drama of the Coachella Valley surrounding Palm Springs has inspired visionary architects since the 1920’s to a design movement now called Desert Modernism, to which worldwide attention is paid.  Influenced by the enviable indoor-outdoor style that is desert living, the likes of legends such as Albert Frey, Donald Wexler, William F. Cody and Richard Neutra evoked an elegant lifestyle using clean lines and natural materials like glass, steel, cement and rock, which can be found in buildings of every type in Palm Springs from residential to religious. Even a local McDonalds honours the aesthetic, and no one in the city can miss the looming landmark home Lautner built perched high above the city for Bob and Delores Hope.

As Palm Springs boasts one of largest concentrations of mid-century modern architecture in the world, it also boasts intimate, private tours by the likes of noted author / director  Michael Stern of The Modern Tour, and Robert Imber of Palm Springs Modern Tours.

“We live it and breathe it,” says Imber of the Palm Springs’ relationship with architecture.  Both Stern and Imber have encyclopedic knowledge of the countless notable buildings worth enjoying, along with fabled stories of former occupants’ time in each, like the tale of the crack that still remains in the bathroom sink to this day from back when a furious starlet threw a champagne bottle at a philandering Frank Sinatra.

Must-sees include Elvis’ ‘The House of Tomorrow’, Sinatra’s house (replete with cracked sink), a home where Liz Taylor spent much time, the Bing Crosby estate, as well as a Wexler home once owned by Dinah Shore. Our favourite? This home, pictured above, which was once owned by Barry Manilow. Quintessential Palm Springs.

Here, Imber explains the arrival of the modernist aesthetic to Palm Springs:

More on Palm Springs here.

– Sabrina Pirillo and Shaun Proulx

S.Travel Approved*

* S.Travel is our coveted publishing stamp of approval on LGBT travel destinations, accommodations, bars, restaurants, adventures and experiences. Look to S.Travel for the very best LGBT travel the world has to offer. Join us on Twitter and Facebook for the latest in LGBT travel ideas, tips and fun, and sign up to receive our free S.Travel Newsletter.

Lucille Ball image: Maurice Terrell
All other images: Shaun Proulx Media

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LGBT TRAVEL :: THE SAGUARO HOTEL Magnificent Palm Springs gets an average of 354 sunny days a year. That’s practically a directive from above that one lounge poolside, enjoy god-sent food and, of course, cool, refreshing cocktails while splish-splashing.

We’re not conjuring a desert illusion – such fun can be had and in flashback 1950’s Technicolor. The Saguaro Palm Springs is the place; Iron Chef Jose Garces is there to furnish the vibrant flavours under the delicious California sunshine.

The Saguaro’s bright, magnetic colour palette is the work of architects Peter Stamberg and Paul Aferiat, who took the inspiration from the indigenous flowers that grow in the local desert landscape. And the view? Take your pick: almost every room has a balcony or patio, and the Saguaro’s C-shape allows views of its Olympic-size pool and hot tubs, the San Jacinto mountains, Saguaro’s garden courtyard, or Palm Springs’ city lights.

The Saguaro Palm Springs also offers a daily yoga class, shuttle service into downtown and a 24-hour fitness centre.

Palm Springs was ranked the #1 gay friendly city in 2013 (beating out San Francisco according to NerdWallet.com) and plays home to a large gay population and very welcoming to LGBT visitors. The gay culture blends into day-to-day life in Palm Springs, with tons of attractions and gay-friendly events held year round, including Greater Palm Springs Pride, which takes place every November. The Saguaro is home-away-from-home for hundreds of beautiful LGBT people during these festivities – and plays host as official Palm Springs Pride parties light up the night.

Pride or not, The Saguaro is a property you’ll want to return to, every time you visit Palm Springs.

–  S.Travel Approved*

* S.Travel is our coveted publishing stamp of approval on LGBT travel destinations, accommodations, bars, restaurants, adventures and experiences. Look to S.Travel for the very best LGBT travel the world has to offer. Join us on Twitter and Facebook for the latest in LGBT travel ideas, tips and fun, and sign up to receive our free  S.Travel Newsletter.

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DINING :: The Tropicale and Coral Seas Lounge was one of our favourite new finds in Palm Springs – and apparently all of America agrees. The Tropicale was declared one of the top 100 restaurants in the United States by Open Table.

Expect it to be packed with a glamorous-but-casual crowd, and expect a throwback vibe that’s perfectly modern with just a hint of kitsch (but god how we love their seahorse logo).

And how we love their menu. The Tropicale offers a superior food experience and this is how we know: We went for their popular Sushi Sunday. Sushi. In. The Desert.

And it was sublime, inventive, and as good as if you were by the sea. Tropicale offers a far wider ranging menu than simply sushi – click here to view their creations.

Our high-energy hysterical waiter that night was the son that Lady Bunny and Jack from Will & Grace didn’t know they had, added-value that may not be guaranteed when you go. But just look for the table having the best time, like we were, and ask to be seated in that section.

–  S.Travel Approved*

* S.Travel is our coveted publishing stamp of approval on LGBT travel destinations, accommodations, bars, restaurants, adventures and experiences. Look to S.Travel for the very best LGBT travel the world has to offer. Join us on Twitter and Facebook for the latest in LGBT travel ideas, tips and fun, and sign up to receive our free  S.Travel Newsletter.

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DINING :: Located in Palm Springs’ trendy Uptown Design District, TRIO offers an energetic, desert-casual atmosphere featuring American modern at reasonable prices. It’s where Palm Springs residents eat and drink, always a good sign.

Once a bank, TRIO’s front entrance is a wall safe. The restaurant opened when partners Tony Marchese and Executive Chef / co-owner Mark Van Laanen had a dream to take simple comfort food and add a contemporary twist to it.

Mission successful.

“When you walk in the door it’s all about comfort, the surroundings and the food,” as Marchese himself says. “Our goal has always been to create a restaurant with a unique energy, where anyone can come dine two to three times a week. We are a proud part of the community in which we love, work, eat and play.”

Their extensive menu features a variety of fish, steak, and organic salads, plus seasonal items from local growers and farmers.

We recommend the Soy Ceviche to awaken the taste buds: edamame, tofu, tomato, cucumber, avocado cilantro, sriracha, chilli, and lime. The oven-roasted Australian Sole with Israeli couscous is an excellent main.

New to the family: The Purple Room – Purchased recently by Marchese and Van Laanen, The Purple Room is a Palm Springs favourite, legendary as home to the Rat Pack who used to perform there. The Purple Room offers a classic supper club/lounge feel bringing you right back to Hollywood’s heyday.

–  S.Travel Approved*

* S.Travel is our coveted publishing stamp of approval on LGBT travel destinations, accommodations, bars, restaurants, adventures and experiences. Look to S.Travel for the very best LGBT travel the world has to offer. Join us on Twitter and Facebook for the latest in LGBT travel ideas, tips and fun, and sign up to receive our free  S.Travel Newsletter.

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MUST EXPERIENCES :: It’s not a vast city by any means, but Palm Springs packs a hard punch when it comes to that moment when you decide lying poolside is done. Here are a few of our tried and true favourite things to do in Palm Springs:

To Get Your Bearings: Your first stop is always Oscars’s Cafe & Bar, in the heart of the city. You won’t find a more welcoming, open-hearted environment to refresh, nosh, and make a plan. The staff here are always above-par with their reception of guests, helpful, and happen to serve up the perfect food for when you’ve stepped off a plane, checked into your hotel, and need to energize so your holiday gets off to a good start.

To Get High: True confession: we love to shop. That said, we’ve been to many outlets malls on many continents and the newly expanded Desert Springs Premium Outlet mall beats them all. It’s a very quick drive outside of the heart of the city (no more long drives to savings!), the prices are what we call “real” deals ($50 off isn’t that big an offer!) and best of all, we’ve never seen so many coveted brands under one roof. Honestly, one of us had heart palpitations last time we were there and just needed to go off on his own; he couldn’t speak, just shop.

To Come Down: Smoketree Stables always feels like coming home – and we don’t have horses at home! Yet the atmosphere is immediately soothing, the staff – many real cowboys – are experienced pros ready to assist any rider: new, pro, or nervous as hell. A two-hour ride through the canyon is the tonic every mind/body/soul needs, which is why you’ll return every time we’re in Palm Springs. In this 2011 video, GGN publisher Shaun Proulx and then-fiance Patrick (Eddie) Marano, visit Smoketree for the first time:

To Bust Your Butt: At least once in Palm Springs, you must take their aerial tramway – the world’s largest rotating tram car – just to experience the breathtaking views as you rise over the cliffs of the Chino Canyon. Begin the 10 minute ride at the Valley Station – elevation 2,643 ft. and end at the Mountain Station – elevation 8,516 ft. From there, take a hike and drink in views unlike anything you’ve ever seen.

To Be Classic Queer Palm Springs: Wang’s In The Desert, famous for their happy hours, is a must when you visit Palm Springs. Their award-winning Pan-Asian menu is drool-worthy (we like letting our server pick dishes to try based on telling him our likes / dislikes), Tip: Return to Oscar’s the next morning for their amazing breakfast and brunch. Guaranteed to kill that hangover. Or, if you wake up and you’re still at Wang’s their Dim Sum is fantastic.

–  S.Travel Approved*

* S.Travel is our coveted publishing stamp of approval on LGBT travel destinations, accommodations, bars, restaurants, adventures and experiences. Look to S.Travel for the very best LGBT travel the world has to offer. Join us on Twitter and Facebook for the latest in LGBT travel ideas, tips and fun, and sign up to receive our free  S.Travel Newsletter.

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RAINBOW CONNECTION :: With its higher-than-average LGBT population, gay pride in Palm Springs is a year-long affair. But still, nothing beats when Palm Springs actually celebrates Pride proper. Palm Springs – already a hotbed of consistent high vibe energy – comes even more alive for its annual Pride Celebration, which celebrated 30 years of celebrating in 2013. With one of the most humbling scenic routes in the world for their parade to travel along – crystal blue skies, sunshine, and palm tree-lined streets form the backdrop – you can’t help but watch amongst 50,000 others and crown Palm Springs “Gayest Place Ever” – even if it’s just for a day. Did we mention Ross Mathews was Grand Marshal?

There are always so many Pride activities in Palm Springs to choose from, most of them being free admission. Our favourite stops when we celebrated Pride in Palm Springs:

Stonewall Equality Concert: The outdoor concert was held at the Forever Marilyn Sculpture (AKA the 26-foot Marilyn Monroe, inspired by the famous photograph of Bernard of Hollywood from The Seven Year Itch) to celebrate legalization of same-sex marriage in California, the repeal of DOMA and the progress toward equality since the 1969 Stonewall riots in New York City.

Complimentary Same-Sex Wedding Ceremonies: As hundreds watched, same-sex couples took part in a once in a lifetime opportunity to get married by a caring officiant in the center of Palm Springs at the Forever Marilyn Wedding Garden.

Two-Day Pride Festival: Festival highlights included: the Big Top Cabaret and Palm Springs Gay RoWdeo Association country dance.  The festival featured live musical performances with over 125 exhibitors and non-profit organizations present.

More on Palm Springs Pride.

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SEX AND GENDER VACATION :: When my alarm goes off, my eyes are already open from the excitement.  Today is the day we go to Palm Springs. I heart Palm Springs. From its glamorous old Hollywood-getaway history, to its near perfect weather year round, to the immaculate architecture of the mid-century era. We love mid-century modern architecture and love visiting the desert destination for Modernism Week.

Little did I know I was in for an un-modern surprise. Not around the home, but around the family, on our family vacation.

At Toronto Pearson airport I walk to the self check-in kiosk (reluctantly: haven’t I paid enough for my ticket not to suddenly become part-time airline labour?).

I try following the instructions.  Immediately I’m faced with a bizarre selection: gender.

As a gay man well aware of the fluidity of gender I’ve met a lot of  people who would find this simple question annoying.  First off, what does it matter what gender I am to board a flight?  ‘Male or Female’.  These are the choices.  God help all those I know who don’t fit into those two very narrow categories that the airline has so thoughtfully laid out for me.

I roll my eyes, click ‘male’ and move on, done that task.

An airline rep appears, and hands us a form to fill out.  Name, address, citizenship, the usual.  I notice on the form that Shaun and I, married and living together, only have to fill out one form because we live in the same household.

The flight rep confirms that’s all we need to do. Great!  Less paperwork!

We check in, go through the first security check point, and look back at the growing number of travellers behind us. It’s always so tense in security, especially going into the United States.

Finally it’s our turn and together we walk up to the customs agent, a small, hard-looking woman with poorly applied make up.

She looks at Shaun and I with a question mark expression. “Are you two related?”

“No.”

“Then you have to come up separately.”

“But we live together. And the form says…”

“It doesn’t matter.”

“But we’re married.”

“We don’t recognize that.”

Shaun is never into airport drama, especially ahead of a vacation. He doesn’t care what some random security employee thinks and chooses the route that will get him where he wants to go. In this case, it’s biting his tongue.

I on the other hand am ready to confront the security person. But Shaun and I exchange looks. “I’ll wait for you over there,” he says, choosing his battles.

I backtrack against my will through the growing security line, all the way back to check-in to grab another form, to fill it out independently of my live-in husband.

I know this wouldn’t have happened as a man and a woman.  Looking back, maybe I should have ticked that I was female at the self check-in kiosk?

I finally make my way through Customs (as a single man, according to the form) to meet Shaun waiting on the other side.

We board, and enjoy an easy flight and eventually begin our descent into beautiful Palm Springs.

The flight attendant comes on the speaker to welcome us to California and tells us to look out the plane on the right side.

“On your right, the men will see Palm Springs’ famous golf courses, and, if you ladies will look out on the left side, you’ll see Macy’s department store!”

Really?

Shaun and I peer eagerly to the left.

Modern family, coming through!

– Follow Patrick Marano on Twitter

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